Home athlete Qixin Zhong and Indonesia's Aries Susanti Rahayu topped the respective men's and women's speed qualification standings on day one of the International Federation of Sport Climbing World Cup in Chinese city Xiamen.
Zhong posted a result of 5.490 as the fields were cut down to 16 on a climbing wall set-up at Guanzhou Road.
He finished ahead of Russia's Dmitrii Timofeev with 5.648 and Iran's Reza Alipourshenazandifar with 5.658.
Men's rankings leader Bassa Mawem of France came ninth with 5.950, while second-placed Vladislav Deulin of Russia ranked sixth with 5.832.
In the women’s event, Susanti Rahayu led the way with a result of 7.204.
China’s YiLing Song, the rankings leader, finished second with 7.423.
France's defending champion Anouck Jaubert, the only athlete who could overhaul Song, came third with 7.592.
The overall men's and women's speed champions will be crowned tomorrow, when the finals are held.
Also scheduled for tomorrow is qualification in the men's and women's lead events.
The semi-finals and finals for those are set for Sunday (October 20).